So would some board like this for the switches work? I'm seeing a lot of button box tutorials using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=read04e-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00UUROWWK&linkId=fa13947827870b3ef0361d7afc60fc61
EDIT: So I posted this board knowing fully that it is more optimized for arcades, however when making this post I discovered a board called the BBI-32 that can go up to 32 buttons, I was originally put off by it as I didn't understand exactly how it works and how to connect things, but after a little bit of research I realized how to connect everything.
BBI-32: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=205
(The following text is from my Thingiverse post.)
The Polybar - Create your very own music game controller with your 3D printer!
Do you want to play Clone Hero, but spent all of your money on a 3D printer? Look no further, as you too can enjoy the adventure of building your very own music game guitar.
I set out to create an easy (ish) to assemble and low cost (ish) music game guitar that could be taken on the go. What fun is a music game without your friends? This was designed with the intention on being as low cost as possible, which I am very aware is counter intuitive given the means of creating it.
There are two different sizes for the guitar, as listed in the files. There is the base/fretboard version, if you want to try playing on a ukulele sized controller, as well as a base/extension/fretboard version that is similar in length to a Guitar Hero 5 controller (strum bar to fret length).
Please post your makes, and remix and use the components in your own projects to your hearts content. While my initial goal was to make a fixable, cheap-er-ish music game guitar, the real goal is to get more controllers in people's hands. Make one for your friends or family, and get rippin' on those frets!
The following should outline some printing recommendations, as well as additional parts you will need for assembly.
BASE, NECK, FRETBOARD:
Infill: 20% - 40%
Supports: Yes
Layer Height: .20
INTERNAL BOARDS:
Infill: 100%
Supports: No
Layer Height: .20
FRETS, BUTTONS, STRUM BAR, STRUM FINISH PLATE:
Infill: 20%
Supports: No
Layer Height: .20
STRUM SWIVEL:
Infill: 20%
Supports: Yes
Layer Height: .20
WHAMMY BUTTON:
Infill: 20%
Supports: Yes
Layer Height: .20
(If you have a specific question on a part and its printing requirements, use your best judgement. Most parts need supports for overhangs, except for solid components.)
ASSEMBLY:
Need to do a full writeup... - If you have experience with DIY projects such as this, you will get the jist when it comes to soldering/assembly.
PRODUCT PARTS LIST:
5x Kailh Low Profile Choc Switches (Fret Switches)
https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-low-profile-switches?variant=3747939713064
3x KULONG Key Switches (Strum and Whammy Switches)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TLS1B5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1x Zero Delay Arcade Encoder (USB-B Version REQUIRED)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VN4MECGN653ABJVD0P9Q
4x Tactile Micro Buttons
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8S99RH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DJBXGPR1J74BZ1D64MVZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1x Stainless Steel Rod, NOTE: Cut to 102mm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7V8QBW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_QYB5W39D7ESW6JW8WJ9F
13x M5x16 Screws
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CDRQJSY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WYVQZVDRVG7HGVBC72ER
Other components required are things such as a soldering iron, hot glue gun, and patience.
PLEASE NOTE: Not every printer / component you purchase is guaranteed to have a perfect fit. You may need to make modifications to my models or your products you purchase to ensure a proper fit. With the parts listed above, I was able to create two guitars with no button rattles or fitment issues.
Interesting. Do you have any opinions on the spinners from Ultimarc? I think I want my spinner to have a large top.
Also, I think I installed one of those cheap USB encoders you're talking about: this one from Amazon. If this thing sucks, what should I use instead?
No drilling or soldering at all. With the extra cables, you can just plug the buttons in and you're good to go. I've seen people say you can split the original cables to make them fit, but these switches were way too big and I needed extra cables.
Buttons: EG STARTS 6X American Style... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBT6LRP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cables: Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Trackball: https://thunderstickstudio.com/products/trackball
LED buttons (set of two, but they sell sets of 1) EG STARTS 2 Player Arcade Games... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMM4P4H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I forgot to mention that the extra cables are just barely too short for one of the buttons, so I had to leave my board unscrewed at the bottom so they can reach. Not where you can see it, of course, and it's still just as sturdy.
Just this cheap one off Amazon- working great so far.
Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sorry here there are:
Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_s2KFFbR8HTDV8
Easyget 2 Player Zero Delay Generic Game Controller USB to Joystick for MAME & Raspberry Pi 1/2/3 RetroPie DIY Projects Support for SANWA Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZ797OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_X2KFFbHHDXGKK
US $8.07 5％ Off | 2 Players Zero Delay Arcade DIY KIT USB ENCODER PC TO JOYSTICK FOR 4way and 8way ZIPPY JOYSTICK and 4.8MM BUTTON https://a.aliexpress.com/_B0Q4cP