Here's the one I use, SMA Pigtail Lead -http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007POCIM2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

It's used for providing a buffer between the vTx and antenna. The vTx's SMA or RP-SMA donlge usually has nothing but a bit of solder to hold it on. It's advisable to put some epoxy/super glue on it to strengthen this point. Then, adding the SMA pigtail lead will give you the added security of not having your antenna directly connected to the weak point of the vTx. You will crash and your antenna will get bent every which direction...putting a lot of stress on whatever it's connected to. Much easier/cheaper to replace a pigtail lead than a vTx.

ESC Programmer - The ESC programmer you need will be specific to what ever ESC you get. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out, usually the site selling the ESC also has the programmer for it just a click away. The programmer itself is hardware, to be used in conjunction with the software. For example, the BLHeli suite. It allows you to program the ESCs, even reverse the direction of the motors without having to resolder. You might need this to get damped light and oneshot working...most likely, you'll need it for something.

Battery Charger - So this is what you really need to know. If you're charging 1 battery, it's best to use the LiPo setting, 3s or 4s depending on what the battery is, and you set the amperage to one/onehundredth of the mah rating. So if it's 4s 1300 mah battery, you'd set it to: Balance Charger, LiPo, 4s, 1.3a (because .001x1300 = 1.3a). Charging at 1.3a for a 1300 mah battery means you're charging at 1c. 2.6a = 2c, and so forth. It's recommended to charge at 1c for safety reasons...but your battery will tell you the max safe charge rate as well.

Battery Charging on a Parallel Board - Here's the parallel board I use: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14856__Hobbyking_Parallel_charging_Board_for_6_packs_2_6S_XT_60_.html

For charging parallel, you plug the parallel board into the charger, and the smart charge port of the parallel board goes into the 6s slot (even though you'll most likely be charging on 3s/4s, it's fine). Here, you will have to follow a couple rules. First, make sure the batteries you'll be balance charging are all the same cell count. They can have different mah ratings (1300, 2200, etc) but they must all be 4s, or 3s. Next, make sure the batteries are all within .1 volts of each other. I fly my batteries down to 3.8v, but sometimes dip to 3.7. This is safe to balance charge. A 3.5v with a 3.9v might cause issues. Ok, now you're ready to plug them into the balance board. Lets give a hypothetical here, lets say you have 4 batteries, on 4s, 1300 mah each. Once you plug them all into the parallel board, you'll set the balance charger as so: 4s, LiPo, Balance Charge. The charger will do a battery check, make sure it says 4s 4c, that's the cell count. If it doesn't read the cell count correctly, something is wrong with the batteries, stop, and figure it out. Otherwise, you'll continue and set the ratings like so....

4x batteries 4s @ 1300 mah. That means you'll want to set the charger to 4s, and 4x the mah x .001

So, 4 x 1300 x .001 = 5.2a

So set 4s, 5.2a, LiPo, Balance Charge > Continue onto cell count check, confirm cell count correct > start charging

AERO Guard - I wouldn't use it. It causes drag and it's added weight. Could possibly even affect the handling. And also, I doubt it will fit if it's designed for the QAV. If you want it, best bet it to 3d print it.

As for the other stuff in the bullet list, harbor freight for the allen wrenchs, 14/16/18ga wire, hovership.com for wire mesh, metric nuts/screws from redrotorrc.com for your frame/arms, heatshrink/zipties/super glue/epoxy either amazon or home depot, and xt60's only come in male and female, so get a package of 5male/5female.