1. I haven't replaced the nozzle, but unlike the adventurer line they should be standard. Usual procedure for other printers is to heat the hotend, then use pliers to to grip the heater assembly and the correct socket for the nozzle and remove like a bolt. Reverse to replace.

2. You can use any filament you want, I like matterhackers and hatchbox personally. Good quality and good tolerances on the material diameter.

3. I use spring steel beds. 1 with Pei, one with buildtak, and one plain that I apply magigoo to when the material requires it. last is fantastic for smooth glass bed like finishes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088ZGTPGB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745669 <- Shim for z-end stop.

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1. isoprophyl alcohol for the bed to remove any grease from your skin. Outside of that, soap and water also works (if you have a removable bed setup). The rest of the printer doesn't need to be cleaned, maybe just vacuum out the chamber.

2. You can make a profile for Cura or prusaslicer, but flashforge printers require flashprint if you want full functionality like mirror and duplication modes (at least afaik to date). Flashprint 5 exposes most of the advanced features I've found critical for advanced print tuning, but it lacks some nice extras like some of the newer infill patterns, a better support blocking/placing editor, built in multi material or multicolor painting (prusaslicer is awesome), etc. You can try some of those, but its going to be fairly annoying getting things going to the same degree of smoothness. I'd rather fight my designs than fight the slicer and my designs ;)