You need a multimeter, here’s an example.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a couple good write ups that will make you a Battery/Charging system GURU and can help somebody else in the future!

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery

First though, check the battery cable connections and follow the big wires to where they go, especially the black, ground wire. Clean, rust free and tight.

Go to /r/appliancerepair and ask around. I've fixed my dishwasher - also a GE, which also broke after 2 years. GE quality is shit. they get into the channel because they give builders a great deal to use them.

In your case, it is unclear if it is washing and then failing on the rise or if it fails after fill-up.

you didnt say dishwasher was cancelling and also full of water, so i'm guessing pump and impeller are fine.

if it cancels right after the fillup:

the heating element should just be turning on to heat water at this stage. do you have a multi-meter? if not, go buy one! they are super useful and cost about $15. here's a cheap one on amazon that will do the trick.

• check thermal fuse. remove and do a continuity test with a multimeter. ifnyou multimeter doesnt have a continuity function, measure the resistance. fuse is blown if resistance is infinite. this is a super-easy fix if thermal fuse is blown. note: check your dishwasher to make sure its level.
• check heating element do a continuity test. for this you can just test at the terminals for the element. you probably dont have to remove it to test.

if cancel happens after wash at beginning of the rinse cycle. problem is elsewhere. Could be a partially blocked drainage issue, a faulty sensor, faulty solenoid or water valve, faulty control board, etc...

Drain issues and pump are easy to diagnose and repair. In ascending order of difficulty:

• check drain hose for clogs and kinks. Clear and un-kink if found. This often happens in spots where the drain tub bends. you can remove the drain tube and blow out obstructions with the garden hose.
• check float switch to ensure it isn't getting stuck and that it moves freely. Remove and clean if it is 'sticky'.
• remove filter screen from chopper assembly and clean if clogged. If you use dishwasher pods this is probably the culprit! the pod packaging material forms a sludge on the filter screen.
• check chopper assembly itself for clogs or obstructions.

failing all that, it's start looking at your main control board.

These instructions will also help you test your charging circuit as well.

You need a multimeter, here’s an example.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a couple good write ups that will make you a Battery/Charging system GURU and can help somebody else in the future.

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf

First though, check the battery cable connections and follow the big wires to where they go, especially the black, ground wire. Clean, rust free and tight.

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

You can spend more, but https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

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These instructions will also help you test your charging circuit as well.

You need a multimeter, here’s an example.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a couple good write ups that will make you a Battery/Charging system GURU and can help somebody else in the future.

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf

First though, check the battery cable connections and follow the big wires to where they go, especially the black, ground wire. Clean, rust free and tight.

ok thank you - would this work?

1) Yes, you have restrictions due to hardware limitations. 2) Not fundamentally different, just extra requirements to keep in mind. Interaction with interrupts, interfacing to hardware, portability to different processors/development environments for example. 3) Pick up a cheap development board and write a "Hello World" project from scratch. Add a resistor and LED to your project and blink it. For example using: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ESP-WROOM-32-Development-Microcontroller-Integrated/dp/B0718T232Z/ https://www.amazon.com/REXQualis-Electronics-tie-Points-Breadboard-Potentiometer/dp/B073ZC68QG/

4) I think familiarization with the RTOS and possible cloud connectivity options (such as AWS IoT), or maybe a few serial protocols, or a micro web server would be of at least as much benefit as becoming uber aware of one microprocessor specifics.

5) The Saleae Logic 8 is a nice entry level logic analyzer - useful for watching logic signals. You can get a cheapy multimeter like: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ while saving up for a nice Fluke.

A voltmeter or a multimeter: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=BH3KJR5QJG6P&keywords=voltmeter&qid=1672352473&sprefix=voltmeter%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-3

I you can do it in other ways but these will be more of an explaination