https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This may be an option.
Must be on the same 120v leg - so may not be convenient.
It's networking through the existing power wiring.
Note: when I plugged it in it produced a lot of other wifi network interference and forced some distant wifi cameras offline/sporadic.
It may be a quick/temporary solution until you get POE wiring out there. I agree with mblaster this is the wisest choice.
Can also move your inside wifi to as close to the barn - might be close enough to cross that distance. Wifi travels well in open air/line of sight...it's just penetrating walls/windows where it loses a lot of signal strength.
Of course the barn has no power...so it's either routing a power cord or a poe cord. Networking cable does have a lifespan of 4-5 years outside if left undisturbed.
You can also move an indoor wifi outdoor and put it in a ziplock bag for temporary use. Most 'outdoor' stuff is sealed for bug intrusion (as well as water) - and has heat sinks instead of fans/venting. But you can use inside stuff outside in weather protected areas for the short term.
I'd absolutely not depend on battery wifi items - there are a lot of reasons why those may be poor choices. The easiest of which is they're very easy to disable with a stick or a rock...and if reachable often just yanked off the wall.
When you do buy wiring - you can get direct burial cat 6 (or 5e) wiring and be fine. its up to you if you wish to splurge for conduit.
POE needs power at the injection point. So you'll have to somehow get wiring from inside the house to the outside.
I concur. The homenetworking post makes it more clear what OP is looking for. This being inside the home. So directional sector, dish, mast antennas are likely not desirable.
MikroTik is probably the only PtP wireless bridge solution that has a formfactor of a consumer looking box. But if the OP is satisfied with their current AP. Adding a MikroTik AP (omni antenna) as a dedicated PtP bridge is adding interference.
Another option would be Powerline adapters. HomeAV2. You can connect multiple up to a single master if you need another connection in another location. Or multiple devices behind a unit with use of a switch, or some higher capacity models even have 2 ethernet ports.
Key Features in picking out a good one:
I'd suggest the ones that do 2000 Mbps ( 1000 up / 1000 down ).
The 3 prong versions hold in the outlet better and maybe placebo, but seem to have more reliable connection.
Stay away from the older AV / AV1 standard, those were junk. AV2 is been out for some time now, it should be the only offered anymore. But still make sure it's HomePlug AV2.
Good one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU?th=1
OR
The best option would be to hire an electrician to run you some network drops. 2-3 will probably take the same time as 1 so might as well get a couple if you're going to that extent. Any good electrical company will run cat5/6 for you.
Also I'd ask them not to install the connectors on the wire ends. Electricians don't typically do these well. Hit or miss if you get a good one. It's not their trade/speciality so not complaining.
You can have the electrician do the bulk of the labor, running the cable, installing boxes, etc.. at a lower labor rate. Then have a networking / IT person come in afterwards and make the connections. Then they are in and out in 15-30 mins.
Lots of people have excuses on why they look for other solutions other than wiring. But I've never met a building/structure that was impossible to wire. And the excuse of "renting" is not good enough. All inhabitable places have electrical outlets. And I've never met a landlord that if the wiring was done in a neat and professional manner that equals modern electrical wiring. They are totally fine with "It will be a box in the wall just like the electrical outlet just with a different cover". "Nope, no wires will be exposed." Some landlords will even pay or go halves on the bill.
Which powerline do you have? Do you think this cheap one would cut it, or would I need a better one like this more expensive one
Make sure you connect it to your router via wire.
Wireless mesh/repeater/extender is not good performance.
If running a wire is an issue. Powerline Ethernet (homeplug av2), coax (moca or Hpna), or Ethernet extender (dsl/phone) is much better alternatives than wireless repeater.
This is a close to wired as you can get without running cable. 2000 = 1000 up x 1000 down. (Full duplex)
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU
I'll update main post with the specs as well, but here's the path the connection takes.
I haven't had to pay for a monthly channel guide. I agree, it's good to get an ATSC 3.0 capable tuner. I have the HDHomerun Flex 4K, which I bought about a year ago, and it looks like that's still being produced and is probably one of the only ones that can tune ATSC 3.0 stations. I'd probably recommend that one. One thing is it doesn't have wifi (it only has an ethernet port for network connectivity), so you'd have to place it near your router or anywhere where you have an ethernet connection to your router (such as a network switch etc.). But there are workarounds for that - I've seen wifi to ethernet adapters (such as this one), which can connect to wifi and they have an ethernet port where you can plug in a wired device. Or a pair of powerline ethernet adapters (these are fairly fast), which carry network data between power outlets - you could plug one in where your router is and plug the other one in near where your tuner is and plug the tuner in there.