I had tried one of the cheap SJ@JX boards that are all over Amazon and it didn't do anything so thought the Switch may not work, but thanks to this guy (can't find the Reddit post now) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CRAc6iUzhE figured I'd give it another try with a Brooks given I have the Control Panel for my ALP and can't believe they'd really be any different. Still testing some things, but for the most part it works like a charm.
Here's what I bought:
Brooks Zero Pi Fighting Board Easy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09637ZPSF?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Fighting Board Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JX5H2B?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details Optional but a nice to have
A USB B to A cable (old printer style) https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B00P0FO1P0/ref=asc\_df\_B00P0FO1P0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198099097186&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=770581146656546391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019483&hvtargid=pla-378392717173&th=1
Also gave me an excuse to buy a cool tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W44T2XJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details Works like a charm, but still be careful as Atgames uses some of the thinnest wires I've ever seen.
T Tap Wire Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLPBPW5?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details&th=1 The only ones used due to tiny wire size were the Red, so maybe just try to find a box of that size.
I also already use the 3D printed control holdrers from 3ddadd3, the newer versions that attach to the side rails which is nice so your controllers are right there as needed for anything not controlled by the ALP https://www.reddit.com/r/LegendsUltimate/comments/ngm3oe/legends\_pinball\_3d\_printed\_cup\_holder\_review/
I have the Switch itself mounted on the side of the ALP with heavy duty velcro tape and it works just fine. Once I confirmed the Brooks board works for at least the basic controls I wanted I drilled a hole in the bottom large enough to pass the USB through and all is nice and clean.
Resources:
Brooks board ports layout mapped to Switch file: https://www.brookaccessory.com/download/User%20Guide/
Helpful graphic showing names of all the Joycon buttons https://www.ign.com/wikis/nintendo-switch/Joy-Con\_Controllers they justnamed R wrong with ZR
Then, of course, reference whatever your controller settings are in FX3. I ended up using ZL/ZR triggers for my fliippers and made r/L triggers mapped as Nudge buttons. Other than that I connected A,B,X,Y buttons and the +/Start button to the front white circle button on the ALP (forget what that is called). I did do the firmware update procedure for the Brooks board, but not sure that is even necessary since the last firmware update was 2020;) Anyway, plugged it all in and it just works! Just use the A button for quick launch or the right stick on joycon for ball launch.
I did wire up the joystick on my Control Panel, but there doesn't seem to be an equivalent on the joycons so the joystick doesn't do anything as far as I can tell. I may try mapping it to D-Pad? Not sure as I'm a newb at this stuff. It would be cool to play some normal portrait Switch games on the ALP with control panel if I could figure out the joystick.
Anyway, I've built plenty of PCs in my day but didn't want to go through the expense in this inflated market so I'm pretty pumped to get FX3 integrated on the cheap with a Switch. Happy to answer any questions.
The USB port will be square.
The end that connects to the PC is rectangular as you know plugging them into your PC USB ports.
But the end that goes into the printer is square.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B00P0FO1P0
Bog standard "printer cable" - USB A to USB B (or B to C if you've got a modern laptop that does only has USB C ports)
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B00P0FO1P0/