Quick setup tip.

Get yourself a measuring square, some hand clamps, and even possibly a level. They helped a lot. When installing the frame make sure everything is square and at the proper 90 degree angle.

All wheels should be tight enough where you can barely move them with your fingers on your own. Too tight and its an issue. Too loose and its an issue.

The z screw. Just go and print up the z screw spacer and use that mount. I had real bad binding and vibrations due to the angle of the motor mount. Make sure the z screw is perfectly in line and going straight.

The piece that goes around the z screw. Hand tighten the 2 screws to tight. Then back off a half turn. This prevents the screw hole from additional binding.

Before putting on your top gantry make sure the print bar is perfectly straight. It's VERY easy to have this thing be a few mm off.

The wheels for the z axis should be tight enough that the pieces wont wiggle but loose enough that they can free fall down on their own.

Give the z-screw some lube. Run it up and down with everything installed. Make sure you feel no binding.

The bed leveling spring upgrade is honestly under rated. I think because so many people just do it, it's assumed. Yet it really did take a huge pain in the ass away from the leveling process. The stock springs are made from rounded metal and they sort of deform when too tight and don't provide enough stiffness through a larger range. With the stock springs you sort of need to find a sweet spot when bed leveling. The bed needs to be level but at a point where the tension on those stock springs is just enough to where it won't cause stability issues or fall out of level because the springs are loose. These Springs will change that game up. Not only are they much stronger giving you a larger range to have a level bed with the proper spring tension but they will also keep your bed level over a greater period of time. Not having to level every print. Just a quick check here and there.

As far as leveling. I suggest you loosen your z stop. Adjust your bed to roughly where you can sort of see space between the nozzle and bed. Then push up the z stop until it clicks. Tighten that down. Then level your bed the remaining space using a piece of paper/posted note. Some tension on the paper is good. Not enough to fold it when moving around.

Another solid upgrade is to replace the stock bowden tube and connectors with the capricorn ptfe tubing. I only have the springs and the bowden tube upgrade and I feel my prints are great for just starting. My future upgrades would be a second z axis screw and then jumping into the direct drive and all metal hot end.