Very informative. Working with wires is not an issue (EE degree). Seems like you could also just put this inline with a bisected set of MC4 extenders to not have to deal with the XT60 connector at all.
Panels-->Extender 1st Half-->DC-DC Converter-->Extender 2nd Half-->Bluetti MC4/XT60 Cable
I've got a set of these which would make the splices easy and waterproof:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gonna get the replacement from Bluetti and see how it performs. Sounds like I'm gonna have the same issue, then I'll decide if I keep the unit and get the converter, or if I just return it.
I bought the EB55 as part of my SoCal Edison power outage mitigation strategy (high wind area and I lost power for 29 hrs on Thanksgiving due to it). I recently had an electrician do work on the house to add a generator inlet and bought the Firman generator from Costco to run the whole house, so the Bluetti is no longer as necessary. Would be nice to just get the money back.
Betting you used the same ones I am!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I just had to do some wiring repairs on my '92 FXRS and I used self solder heat shrink sleeves. This was a lot easier and cleaner then if using my soldering iron. Saved me a lot of time and did a nice clean and water proof connection. I was working in the head light bucket without much room to move. I used these: ( I would get the wiring diagram from the manual )
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_NAJ9PTY0WYXGJTDCHE6G
3- Solder seal connectors, yo! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3/ref=twister_B08HLLPW6V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
4 - Crutchfield knows, too.
8 - https://www.crutchfield.com/S-nng2oDYuhIC/p_264PASCON/Crutchfield-ReadyHarness-Service.html is totally worth it unless you like soldering/crimping/etc. (It takes all kinds.)
I actually just did this a couple days ago. Here's the items I purchased and links to their page on Amazon. You can also purchase all of these items from Konnected's website.
I attached the female DC power screw terminal adapters to the end of my alarm keypad wiring in the alarm box. From there, plugged in the 12V 2A AC adapter into the wall and connected that to to the Y adapter which then plugged into the DC power screw terminal adapters. The AC adapter I ordered on Amazon came with two so I just have the other as a back up in the event the one I'm using ever fails.
At the keypad locations, I then wired up the 12V to 5V USB power convertor using these solder seal wire connectors and a heat gun. You could obviously just solder it as well and use some heat shrink wraps, but I didn't want to buy solder equipment so I went with these solder seal wire connectors which actually worked out pretty well. Of note, you have to use a connector that fits the thicker gauge wire on the 12V to 5V USB power convertor so you won't get a water tight seal on the keypad wiring since it's a thinner gauge. It wasn't a factor for me though since these wires are just sitting behind the dry wall in a dry location.
I hooked these up to two Amazon Fire Tablet HD 8s (actually only have one hooked up right now) and it works well. They do sell Y adapters that split off into three ends and you should be able to charge three tablets with that as long as you make sure the power adapter will support however much power the three tablets will draw while charging.
I also ordered an Aeotec Smart Switch 7 which I plan on plugging the AC Adapter into so I can setup an automation that shuts off the power occasionally so the tablets aren't sitting at 100% all the time. Still haven't decided if I wanted to bother with this since the Amazon tablets are so cheap and I'm not sure if it's really a factor for newer tablets.