Great tips and thanks for sharing your experience! It really is not to difficult if you take your time and watch the so many videos on setup and config.

When he says he upgraded his bowden tube, he most likely means to a Capricorn bowden tube that can handle higher heat and not necessarily the fittings. But my stock fittings did break(the tube pulls out and then it never stays in well again. Def get some extra fittings.

Yes, the bowden tube clips used to come with the printer at one time I believe. They are not 100% necessary. They just help hold the fitting collar in place so the tube has less of a chance to slip out when the bowden tube flexes while printing in the corners of the bed.

You will learn print times and how long things take. When you slice your own g-code, the slicer(Voxelmaker, Cura, etc) will give you a fairly good estimate of print time.

One of the biggest mistake that people make is not squaring all frame parts, not fully seating bowden tube in hot end fitting, Belts too loose or tight, and eccentric nuts too loose or tight on the rails.

Happy printing. Do you have a first "real" print in mind yet?

edit: the links that I put in my post are for photo reference only. Not necessary the best or correct parts for a specific printer. or the best price either.