This is what for thermal paste on laptops, lasts about 5 years before needing to be cleaned and replaced -> https://www.newegg.com/antec-formula-7/p/N82E16835209053, I use this on desktop and server builds as well.

This is the cooling pad I use, its curved and blows air up into the laptop and out through the sides of the curve blowing heat away from the bottom of the laptop. I have 2 other branded curve pads like this one, but this is my primary -> https://www.belkin.com/my/p/P-F5L041/

These are the SSD Heatsink I use on a Sabrent Rocket v3 and Silicon Power M.2 for the G5 5505 laptop -> https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Heatsinks-Cooler-Silicone-Thermal/dp/B08PDNKC2H/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=SSD+heatsink&qid=1609041833&sr=8-12, Easily dropped SSD temps by 8-15c under load. I HIGHLY suggest pulling the Dell stock Hynix SSDs for anything else, they run hot and will 'halt' at 83c or so.

I removed the dust covers on the bottom of the laptop to increase CFM into the blower fans. Every little bit helps and I am far less worried about dust build up inside of the laptop then I am about full CFM.

I used electrical tape and taped around the heatsink Fin area to stop air flow from escaping into 'inside' the laptop. I also closed off the gap between the Fan assembly and Heatsink (about a 3mm gap). This increased the heat flow out of the back of the laptop quite a bit. I am on the look out, and currently hunting down, that black 'plastic paper' that dell uses on some of the heatsink assembly on other laptops to create a better 'close the gap' solution.

I did the K5-Pro thermal pad replacement. Its SUPER freaking messy. It dropped thermal leaking down from the VRMs+MOSFETs up through the keyboard. System still gets warm but its not hot the touch from the F1-F12 row and under the space bar is just 'warm' to the touch now. I am not sure its helping with thermals beyond reducing the issue that hits the keyboard, but IMHO that is worth the DYI.

I found that the stock thermal pads on the heatsink are taped in place, these are the trouble spots that hit the Space bar, x,c,v,b,n,d,f,g,2-6,and all the way up to the power button. Like burning finger hot trouble areas. On one of the units I have I did the full K5 replacement, the other I only pulled the heatpads that were taped on and replaced them with K5 and the same benefits were gained. The Thermal pads are not really salvageable once they are removed so if you undertake this mod you need to replace the thermal material.

In addition to the above, the Mosfet thermal material under the spacebar area is a thick rectangle bar that seems to be causing the Heatsink to pop up on the spring pressure screws. I am currently suggesting anyone with thermal issues to replace that thermal material with ANYTHING ELSE. Just make sure it brings contact from the Mosfets to the metal on the heatsink and that its mushy and not solid. This is causing airgap on the thermal paste used at the GPU and/or CPU.

AC Adapter options; 210w, 240w, and 280w work just fine. The 330w does not work. Currently the laptop does not detect the 300w+ adapters and the CPU 'breaks' to 800mhz. Running a 210w AC Adapter forces smartshift to use a lower total 'machine package' power profile based on a % reducing amp draw and lowering operational temperatures. Same goes for the 280w adapter that can be found with some Dell precision docking stations, I was able to test that it worked but did not have time to run through my benchmarks. The 240w stock adapter is what SS wants and is programed against. Reducing the adapter changes the algorithm that SS uses to build the power profiles. I was trying to get a 330w adapter to work in order to test a 135% power profile as opposed to a 100%(240w) or 85%(210w) against SS. If anyone has a 330w adapter and gets it work please let me know hit me up with the Model of adapter used.

These -> https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-2600-5000RPM-Nintendo/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=laptop+fan&qid=1609043306&sr=8-10 are expensive, but work. I have two I use for other projects that I tested on the G5 5505 and not only does it 'suck the heat' away at a very fast rate they have C/F thermometers on them so you can get some external temp readings outside of the laptop. I use these during summer while gaming, Overclocking, sucking Soldering smoke away from my station/reflow machines,...etc. They are 35/each for the GOOD ones and I only suggest them as a LAST DITCH effort as they do not 'fit' the space under the LCD correctly and I had to 3d print/craft my own duct work for the silicon adapters.