Don't use wood glue. And generally, I'm not a fan of putting sticky things on records. Take vinyl care advice on the internet with a grain of salt, especially if it seems overly opinionated about what will or won't TOTALLY DESTROY YOUR RECORDS. It's PVC plastic. If you're attempting to be gentle with them, you're not going to destroy your records.
I have a Nitty Gritty machine that I picked up for a song from a record shop that went out of business. These types of machines are the best for cleaning records, but aren't exactly budget-friendly. If you can get one, go for it.
I have buddies who like the Spin Clean-type systems. Much more affordable, you just need a bit of table space for washing and drying your records without messing them up.
For surface-level cleaning, you're on the right path with that brush. I find wet brush methods are more satisfying than dry brushes, which tend to just push dust around the disc and charge them up with static. They're fine in a pinch for removing hairs and things like that, but I'm not a big fan.
I like to use a Zerostat gun (ebay) to knock down the static charge, which also makes it easier to remove debris that otherwise sticks to the disc like a sock out of the dryer. For small surface-level debris like an individual hair or cloth fibers, I use this rocket air blaster which is powerful enough to remove that stuff, especially if you've mitigated static charge.
Before each play I brush my stylus with a little bit of Last Stylus Cleaner. Not only does it keep your stylus in good shape, it helps it glide through the grooves. I like to pretend that it's cleaning the grooves a bit too, but that is almost certainly just a fantasy that I enjoy. It seems pricy for the size, but a bottle will last you a very long time. What it's not great at is removing hairs/fuzz from your needle, for that you should probably use something like the gel stylus cleaners, of which there are dozens and they're all basically the same.
TL:DR - if you don't have access to a vacuum-type record cleaner, you're not really going to get a deep clean. But don't fret, you can have a nice regimen of surface cleaning tools that will help you out.
Sensor:
Lens:
Giottos AA1900 Rocket Air Blaster Large - Black 20% off $11.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vkpzzbF9GGM7V
All From Amazon Singapore:
Bearing Oil
Jizer alternative:
Alcohol:
Rocket Air Blower
OR these but they can spray out some propellant so I prefer the cheaper Rocket Blaster:
Personally, given the cost of R188 bearings and the huge choice which will let you taylor your spinner to your taste I would consider one of these! (Not from Amazon Singapore but the God of bearings!)
http://www.fzessentials.com/store/p161/608_To_R188_Bearing_Adapter_Upgrade_Kit__.html
Hope this helps,
Idle.
If he/she doesn't have a rocket blower they are super useful. I have two, one for my bag, one for home.
I would recommend this kit. Cleaning tissues have their place, but in my opinion the air blaster is the most valuable piece of cleaning gear I own, especially when I'm on the go.
That kit has a nice cheap little air blaster, but if you can swing the extra few bucks, I would highly recommend an air blaster like this one with legs. You'll appreciate being able to stand it up and not have it roll anywhere.
I also recommend something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00017LSPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_t . Unfortunately, it's gone up like $8 since I bought one but there are smaller and cheaper ones out there if you want to shop around. They are fantastic for blowing out moisture in the ocarina. I just happen to have one for blowing out other tech. The rubber of the Mr. Mute attracts and holds moisture much worse than like a plastic ocarina which can be bad enough. So you will probably need to blow or dry it out pretty frequently to keep playing.
I'm in the USA and shot competitive USPSA at the national level for a bit. I was sorting brass by head stamp for awhile. Shooting a lot and reloading even more. We even shot some sort of IPSC qualifier match one time and I can't believe your ROs dress like referees. Here is my .02:
You may want to seriously consider borrowing a single stage to learn a little bit before you jump into a 1050. You're going to have to learn about "progressive" loading and reloading all in one step. It is a lot on a 1050 because the shell plate always rotates and the tool head goes up and down so you'll have to pay attention to the top and bottom of the press at once. That will make more sense when you do it in person. Even a 550 is a little easier to start on since it doesn't auto index. Your choice though. The easiest thing you'll screw up is getting a squib so learn about that and know what to do on the range to identify it if you don't already.
That all said since the tool head moves up and down your first powder throw is always inconsistent no matter what. The powder measure shakes going up and down so the first throw from the powder measure after cycling up and down to get a case to that station can't be trusted.
Generally get rid of the ratchet assembly that keeps the tool head moving down for a cycle. https://dilloncdn.com/manuals/dillon-super1050-manual-english.pdf Page 27. Parts 13376, 13945, 13328. You're going to pinch one of your fingers eventually learning the machine and it is much better when you just pinch it a little instead of having to pinch it and then push the tool head past the next click to release that safety part.
1050's are trash for anything other than 9 and 223. The timing is perfect and they will cycle nicely in 9 and 223, but forget anything else. Forty is especially garbage to load on an 1050. 10mm I guess for you.
Get a set of check weights for your scale. Calibrate/check your scale to start every loading session. Do a quality check on a round every 100 / when you fill the primer tube. No sense loading a ton of out of spec ammo.
1050's are solid out of the box for about three hundred thousand handle pulls and then you have to tear them down and maintain them more often. Dillon powder measures are maintenance pigs when they start wearing. When I was loading a lot I got to the point where I would always have three powder measures around. One that was in the press, one ready to go in the press, and one that needed something to get back in service.
Get something like this little guy to remind you that you have a bomb factory in your house and keep the powder kernels out of places they shouldn't be: https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=camera+air+bulb&qid=1614565778&sr=8-1
Your bench needs to be bolted to the floor and the wall. Super solid no joke.
Keep your work space clean and well organized. No distractions when you are loading. Maintain your press and your tools. Don't leave powder in the powder measure or it will stain. You can't perform your best at a match if you can't trust your own ammo. Your brain will pull all kinds of psycho subconscious stuff on you and ruin your score.
Get a good set of T handle allen wrenches.
Since you're shooting IPSC I'm sure you have people around you locally that will help out.
I use this hand duster for both my VR headset and my camera equipment, and if what you mention is similar at all in function then you'll definitely be all set for years to come! The lens pen in tandem with the duster is my headset-cleaning endgame, lol