I just got this stuff for my brother:
I'd suggest getting some well reviewed mini brushes from Amazon as well. Make sure you clean them. Enjoy!
If you need suggestions on Glue, I like using Cyanoarcylate glue. This will work on both plastic and metal miniatures. Most hobby stores will have this with a different store label. You don't need much to glue and it dries really quickly (10-15 seconds)
You could also try using a more advanced glue: Tamiya Extra thin cement. But be advised, this may slightly melt plastics, which is why it is great on large models. I did this with my troll and it worked really well. I wouldn't really use it on small figured if you are novice to miniature assembly. It tends to flow into spaces and basically melts plastic together nearly seamlessly... but take care with it. It dries rather slowly, so I will use a bit of the Cyan glue and then use the Tamiya glue elsewhere on the model. So the cyan will hold quickly which will then allow the Tamiya time to dry and meld the plastic.
I would recommend some snips for removing the miniatures from the plastic spues, a sharp hobby knife, and maybe some hobby files. The snips from Games workshop and the scraping tool are nice, but cost ALOT. You probably get away with just a hobby knife for like 8 bucks... but with as many miniatures you are assembling it is work considering your hands and fingers. =]
A hobby mat / cutting board could also be good to work on but not necessary.
I recommend Tamiya, basically the same effect as any other plastic cement, but the bottle has a little brush in the cap which I have found to be much more convenient for application. Specifically, the brush allows you to be much more precise and does not have the possibility of excess glue running down the model.
Well, it's not a snap-tight kit so he is going to need some glue. If he doesn't have any I would recommend three as top-tier, but you can make due with one if careful.
Testors Tube Glue is the "old favorite" most people are familiar with.
Tamiya extra fine cement is great for details and long seams (fuselage and wings) but it works differently than the tube cement and some people get confused by this and think it sucks because they don't "do it right." Essentially put the parts together and then paint it along the seam as opposed to painting the joints and then putting pieces together - it's so thin that a lot will evaporate before you get the pieces joined if you apply it first.
Tamiya Clear Parts Cement is nice for clear parts like the canopy or side windows on the Lanc. You can make due with the tube glue as well but you have to be a bit more careful because it's easy to mess up any clear parts.
First of all, welcome to the crusade!
to answer your questions:
1)
this set contains pretty much all the paints and basic tools you’ll need for painting Templars and necrons.
You do not need to stick to citadel products for warhammer, their paint line is okay quality and their bundles are nice though
2)
I use these brushes personally, citadel brushes tend to wear out quickly
3)
The starter set I linked above contains clippers as part of the bundle, here is a nice cheap set of modeling tools
The plastic GW uses for its models is fairly malleable so using a file or the blade of clippers would work for removing the markings. Most models do not have these annoying raised markings
4)
My advice for folks just getting into marines with the indomitus box is to buy a redemptor dreadnought as it is a good generalist unit that is tough and strong
The best way to find good units is to look up rules reviews on YouTube for them, most units are decent in a casual setting and the strength of them varies over time as GW tweaks their rules so it’s generally best to go for a variety of units that you like the look and feel of when first getting into the hobby.
Templars are a melee focused army so getting melee units is often a good way to go.
Getting units in a bundle or combat patrol is the best way to get discounts on them
5)
To have the full rules for Templars, you will need the rules for space marines in the space marine codex and the chapter specific rules in this pdf. We are getting a paperback supplement with updated rules at some point in the future though.
6)
I use this glue for my minis, it comes with a brush making it easy to apply
7)
magnetizing units is its own fiddly, awkward process and is usually only done on much larger units such as tanks and imperial knights so they can have interchangeable weapon options, nothing you’re looking at getting really needs any sort of magnetization besides maybe the redemptor dreadnought though that isn’t strictly necessary. here is a tutorial for that if you’re interested.