Oh, I should have posted those.

For the heated mirror, I just used this WarmlyYours stick-on mirror heating pad on the back of the mirror that went with the vanity I bought from Home Depot. Looks like it's approximately doubled in price since I got mine, but as long as you are doing a full renovation and are able to locate an electrical box right behind the middle of your mirror, this is a pretty cheap and easy way to get a fog-free mirror.

For the towel warmer, I used this Amba brand stainless steel towel warmer. It also requires an electrical box in a specific spot relative to where you want the rack, so it's really only possible in a full renovation.

Both of those are wired into a Z-wave switch - which is controllable through homebridge via the Hubitat plugin.

For the floor, I used FloorLace FIT heating wire. It's basically a knockoff of the SunTouch floor heating mesh, which I ordered first - but got the wrong size. Returned it and found out that the CORRECT size was going to be double the price of the amazon knockoff, so I went with the Amazon one. It has no moving parts obviously, it's just resistive heat, so hopefully it lasts a long time. Have had zero issues so far.

I DID use ditra - but I did not go with their floor heating product. I can't remember the details, but there was some reason why. Maybe it's not waterproof? Expensive? Really thick? I can't remember.

But basically, my floor is, in order from the bottom up:

1. 3/4" plywood subfloor - sanded and primed for self-leveling cement
2. The heating wire hot glued down to the subfloor (in spots)
3. Self-leveling cement poured over the subfloor and heating wire to create a flat, even substrate.
4. Unmodified thinset mortar applied with the ditra trowel for minimal thickness
5. Kerdi Ditra, with Kerdi-band along the edges and seams for waterproofness.
6. Modified thinset mortar
7. Marble stone

I had to dam off the shower area from the self-leveler, since it's a slanted shower floor, and used thinset to cover the heating wire on the slanted area, to the same thickness as the self-leveler. Here is right after we poured the self-leveler over the floor. You can see the shower area is blocked off, where you can still see the heating wire and the subfloor (as well as the floor register hole!). And here is after the Ditra went down.

I was going for minimal overall thickness - which obviously sounds crazy given how many layers were going down - but I didn't want to have to step UP into the bathroom from the carpet of the bedroom, obviously. This necessitated actually notching the floor joists such that the shower actually slants below the subfloor's natural height, rather than raising the whole floor up so that the shower drain is sitting on top of the subfloor.

And I used white epoxy grout so that I'll never have to seal it or worry about it staining or absorbing water. It was a pain to put in vs cement grout, but hopefully it pays off over time.