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2 comments of this product found across Reddit:
giraffasax /r/olkb
6 points
1970-01-19 21:18:47.058 +0000 UTC

Build Components Cost in USD

  • Case - 3d Printed $4-5
  • Switches - Gateron Silent Yellows $27
  • Diodes - 100pc 1N4148 $5
  • Controllers - 2x Pro Micros $18
  • TRRS Jack - 10 pack $8
  • TRRS Cable - 1.5ft $6.50
  • Micro USB to USB-C cable - 2 pack $7
  • Alpha Keycaps - Taken from old kb was $32
  • Mod Keycaps - 3d printed / Used KeyV2 tool to generate $1-2
  • Silicone Adhesive sheet $15

Not including the keycaps that I already had this project cost around $93.

Build Component Links

Build Notes:

Case:

I had to modify the case file that is available on the github repository. These changes mainly pertained to the rear IO holes as I was not using the same USB daughter boards that they used in their build. I also had to increase the overall thickness/height to allow space for the TRRS jack that I selected. Even though I like the look of the TRRS jack and like the fact that it is self-fastened to the case, I do not believe that it is worth the headache.

An additional headache that I should warn you about if you plan to build this keyboard. Replace the bottom mounting posts to use metal threaded inserts. If you decide to stick with the plastic posts, don't print at a smaller layer height that you haven't tested layer adhesion before. After printing the two halves complete a test fit and test treading the bolts into the plastic posts before you build anything. If you decide to not test them beforehand do not glue anything to the bottom half of the case. Now if you are thinking, "wow this is really specific" that is because I made all of the above mistakes and 4 out of the 8 posts broke while putting this together.

And the final headache, I printed the case with the above specified Overture matte black PLA and boy did it not want to stick to the build plate. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the textured magnetic build surface and the top half with all the features was a struggle. I probably had to stop the print, clean the plate, and retry at least 10 times per side. [adjusting bed level to remove local low spots in between] Additionally I had issues of the corners warping up off the surface even when using a brim. However besides bed adhesion, I will say that it prints beautifully.

In the pictures you can see that I used a silicone sheet cut to the size of the base. I chose this as it is only 1mm thick and this case was already getting a bit tall. Also when laid flat it is not going anywhere.

Keycaps:

Unlike in the past where I have used dual materials for the legends, I instead opted for only using a single material so that I could have the dished top for all. As I only have a single material extruder, in order to get the different material legend I would have to print the keycaps face down. I then hand sanded the keycaps with 120 grit to remove a lot of the layer lines and then 600 grit to smooth them out. I am happy with the "stealth" look of these keycaps as in many lighting scenarios it is almost impossible to see the legends, but they are there if I need them.

Wiring:

As you might see in the pictures, I take way too long with wiring. I like to keep everything tidy, bending the wire to fit around each post. By looping the wire like this it gives me a small platform to solder, similar to a pcb. This is absolutely not necessary and only I and the handful of people that see this post will every look at it. But it is a fun way to past the time as I listen to podcasts.

Warning: when putting the switches in, do not follow the orientation that I chose. Although it is consistent and looks nice you will have issues with the three 1.5u keycaps. [If you use the rectangular keycap stem when 3d printing] I had to create special stls that had the stem rotated 90 degrees to get it to work.

General Comments:

I am not a big fan of the Gateron Silent switches. I chose them because I am planning to use this board in an office environment and didn't want anything louder than a membrane. But they are noticeably scratchier than my clear and milky top Gateron Yellows even though I feel that I over lubed these. I am now kicking myself for not spending the extra money to get some higher end switches.

I have not yet figured out how I plan to make the tenting bolts, mainly trying to determine how to create feet that look good and don't slide around.

AdriftAtlas /r/UsbCHardware
1 point
1970-01-20 11:40:26.112 +0000 UTC

I ended up buying a few of these:

USB C to Micro USB Adapter

They violate the USB-C spec but I don't believe they're unsafe. At least with proper use.

Have not tried any of the USB-C to lightning adapters. Those may be more dodgy as lightning requires an MFi chip. It is my understanding that Apple doesn't allow such adapters. Hence, any vendor of such an adapter claiming MFi certification is likely lying.