What are you powering? Most runtimes are based on 50% load or less, iirc.

I wouldn't plan to run your generator during the night, unless you have some medical equipment keeping someone alive. Otherwise, your neighbors will ostracize you. Your refrigerator will be fine for 6-8 hours, so long as the doors stay closed. You will want to power down to refuel no matter if you can switch fuels while running.

keeping in mind that I don't lose power all that often anyway.

Again, what are you powering? I don't intend to "live" off my generator. It's only intended to mitigate a temporary inconvenience (and prevent losing all the food in the refrigerator).

If you don't have to power a well (or water heater), and don't care to have central A/C (or heat if you have a heat pump), you can get away with a lot less capacity than if you must power either (or all).

For me the "basics" is lights/electronics, fridge, microwave and a 1 HP well pump. If I lose power, I lose my heat pump, my water heater and stove/dryer. But, I have never lost power for more than about a day, either.

I have this gas-powered inverter generator, connected using this extension cord, to this plug, wired using this wire, to this transfer switch.

The generator is pull start only, but it's easier (to pull start) than my Snapper riding lawnmower, and I don't want to worry about keeping a battery charged. The generator is also NOT dual fuel, but since I run it dry and drain the bowl after use (ie. no gumming), I have few worries. I don't use an interlock because of the way my house is wired, but the transfer switch is enough for me.

If I'm following what your setup is, your transfer switch transfers the entire house and not individual circuits?

To make this work, I'd think you'd have to turn off ALL your circuits, except the fridge. (after engaging the transfer)

As is, I have a 10-circuit transfer switch. If I want to operate my fridge, I only engage the circuit the fridge is on.

What model of transfer switch do you have? It matters, because it may only be rated for a certain maximum wattage. For example, mine is rated for 7500 running watts total.

Is this the one you're talking about?

I don't know anything about it, but it seems pretty pricey compared to other, less electronic transfer switches.

I have this gas-powered inverter generator, connected using this extension cord, to this plug, wired using this wire, to this transfer switch.

I haven't had any problems, so far.